A Louis By Any Other Name ...

A friend of mine swears his luggage is consistently first onto the airport-baggage carousel because it's Louis Vuitton. I smile supportively at his insistence, but in truth am skeptical, my cynicism rooted in the notion that baggage handlers are more likely to steal a piece of LV rather than coddle it and its owner (I have had perfume and jewelry purloined from my suitcase, hence my trust issues). This is what occurred to me when I saw that Louis Vuitton is expanding its Mon Monogram program, a personalization service that allows you to customize certain coveted pieces of Vuitton. Launched in 2008, Mon Monogram initially (no pun intended) applied to LV's two most iconic bags, the top-handle Speedy and the duffle-like Keepall. But in June the company extended the service to both the classic and business version of its Pegasse 55 rolling suitcase (classic seen here; price without monogram: $2,490). In addition to two-tone initials up to three letters, you also choose either vertical or diagonal stripes from a range of 17 different colors. I've never been good at math (a reason I work in fashion), so I trust LV's press reps when they note that such choices result in more than 200 million possible combinations per bag. A nifty computer program at an LV boutique allows you to see what the resulting custom piece will look like before you hand over your black card, likely so you won't suffer any post-order regrets about that fuchsia-magenta stripe combo. Once your credit card is swiped, your order speeds its way to the closest LV workshop, where your personalized bag is handcrafted, a process that could take from six to eight weeks. But really, aren't the best things in life worth the wait? Unless, of course, you're standing at an airport carousel; and what baggage handler wants a pricey suitcase if it's sporting your initials? That alone makes it a worthy investment ...

What's No. 1 on Your List?

Books are devoted to that list of iconic must-have items integral to the wardrobe of anyone with more than a passing interest in fashion: the LBD, the Chanel jacket, a Cartier Tank Americaine, Vuitton luggage, a Savile Row suit for men, etc. I will fully cop to the idea that one of these elements resides at the top of my most-wanted list, the thing I long to purchase in that fantasy moment when money isn't a concern. Yep, it's a Birkin, the Hermes bag so highly desired it has spawned books of its own (the most recent, "Bringing Home the Birkin: My Life in Pursuit of the World's Most Coveted Handbag," came out in paperback last month). If it's an obvious answer, feel free to say so, but it offers every element that would cause it to reside firmly in my No. 1 spot: A Birkin has history (launched anywhere from 1981 to 1984, depending on the anecdote, spawned by a conversation between the actress Jane Birkin and then-CEO of Hermes, Jean-Louis Dumas); a devotion to craftsmanship (always handmade in a factory outside Paris, each Birkin can take up to 48 work hours to construct); and it's just simply lovely to behold. For Fall Hermes tweaked the Birkin with a minimalist version featuring straps that were embossed onto the bag (style name: the Shadow Birkin). I can't say I love it as much, but I still love it. All of which leads me to ask: What resides at the top of your list? What's the thing you dream about? Not necessarily the one item you long to own this season, but for all time?

Dior's Sheer Delights ...

It took me a long time to warm to John Galliano -- years, in fact. You see, I was at Hubert de Givenchy's retirement show in 1995 and shed tears alongside other reporters backstage with the couturier as he spoke of his final collection as an homage to "my Audrey." Eager to infuse a youthful energy into the label, Givenchy owner LVMH was bringing in Galliano, who promptly upended every notion of what the label was all about -- to someone who worshipped at the altar of fashion's most iconic designer-muse partnership, such a decision amounted to nothing less than sacrilege. Galliano was brash, in-your-face and made no attempt at humility; in other words, he was the anti-Givenchy. His first collection was critically praised but simply didn't sell; less than two years later, Galliano was moved to LVMH sister label Dior. (He was succeeded at Givenchy by Alexander McQueen, then Julien MacDonald, and since 2005 Riccardo Tisci, who has indeed made Givenchy a talked-about label again, though I can only speculate that his rep for being difficult and standoffish will eventually come back to bite him in the ass, especially these days). But back to Galliano, who has found quite the home at Dior. Not unlike Lagerfeld at Chanel, I don't ever envision Galliano leaving this deep-pocket house, where he has honed a razor-sharp skill for infusing modernity and forward thinking with the Dior aesthetic -- and given himself the proper foundation to be as free as he likes with his own label. Still, he is not without his fun at Dior: For his Fall/Winter 09/10 haute-couture collection, Galliano was inspired by a photograph of Monsieur Dior backstage with his models in the mid-1950s, with many of the girls en deshabille. And so Galliano tweaked the concept by sending out his models seemingly half-dressed, sporting cunning sheer slips or -- as seen on Chanel Iman here -- tulle crinolines, revealing sexy vintage-style garters and stockings underneath. I am intrigued by the notion that a starlet will sport such a look on a red carpet and whether it will seem incongruent outside the storied Dior atelier. And in a society that has elevated Dita von Teese and burlesque to a socially acceptable, highly sought-after form of entertainment, can a look like this be far behind? Fourteen years ago I was eager to scoff at Galliano, thinking him a pure example of the titular character in the Emperor's New Clothes. But by riffing on the underpinnings of a Dior dress, displaying reverence, whimsy and artistry at once, Galliano is inspiring us to ask questions not only about fashion but also its place within our culture -- and that's my kind of designer.

Ten Simple Truths to Discern Whether You're a Kindred Spirit of This Blog:

10. Never apologize for liking something simply because it's pretty.
9. Ugly isn't always fabulous, cutting-edge or forward; sometimes it's just plain ugly.
8. No woman, no matter how rich, young or beautiful, looks good in a turban.
7. Elsa Schiaparelli, Cristobal Balenciaga and Coco Chanel were all designers; Victoria Beckham, the Olsen twins and Nicky Hilton are not. You will not be reading about the latter group here.
6. It matters not at all to you that Lindsay Lohan, Claire Danes or Rihanna turned up at any designer's show.
5. No woman alive today and under the age of 30 may be deemed a style icon.
4. Machines will never replace the artistry and passion of hand-craftsmanship.
3. Janice Dickinson was not the world's first supermodel, unless she was working in the 1950s (which, admittedly, is a distinct possibility).
2. Truth No. 3 aside, you need not be mean or egotistical to work in this industry; you must, however, possess a sense of humor.
1. Karl is always right.

McQueen's Amazing Lace ...

So we all know about Alexander McQueen's enfant terrible rep, from his signature skull prints to his push-the-envelope show themes, most notably 1995's infamous Highland Rape collection. But that was soooooo 14 years ago, and every season this London-born son of a taxi driver, who apprenticed with Savile Row tailors, never fails to reveal his romantic side with at least one dress that is equal parts fantasy and reality, beautiful to the point of breathtaking in its artistry, feminism and execution. For his Resort 2010 collection, that dress was this utterly divine confection, an Audrey-style cut highlighted by the most exquisite placement of a highly delicate lace overlay meant to evoke the idea of a dragonfly's wings. McQueen said this season's clothes were inspired by the idea of an artist in a studio -- paint splashes and dizzying stripes abound in an overall strong collection, but to me, it's this dress that reveals the soul of this particular artist ...